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Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: 

 air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the 

The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.

Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)

How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.

Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.

(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)

The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

. By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.

The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:

. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way 

 of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The 

’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.





Is your gaming PC starting to look like a dust magnet? Or worse, are you noticing your temperatures creeping up and your frame rates dipping after a few months of use? While many builders obsess over RGB lighting or cable management, there is an invisible physics battle happening inside your case that determines the health of your PC: Air Pressure. 



Understanding the difference between Positive and Negative air pressure is the key to keeping your components cool and, more importantly, dust-free. Let’s see how this works in practice, using the darkFlash FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case as our reference case."



The Basics: How Air Pressure Works in a PC

Think of your PC case as a room. You have fans pushing air in (Intake) and fans pulling air out (Exhaust). The relationship between these two forces creates pressure.



Positive Air Pressure (The Goal)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM (Airflow in) > Total Exhaust CFM (Airflow out).



The Physics: You are forcing more air into the case than the exhaust fans can pull out. This causes the extra air to naturally push out of every tiny crack, gap, and unfiltered vent in your chassis.



The Result: Dust cannot enter through the gaps because air is constantly rushing out of them. As long as your intake fans have dust filters, the inside of your PC stays clean.







Negative Air Pressure (The Dust Magnet)





The Setup: Total Exhaust CFM > Total Intake CFM.



The Physics: Your fans are pumping air out faster than it can get in, creating a vacuum effect.



The Result: Air (and dust) is sucked in through every unfiltered crack, PCIe slots, side panel gaps, and unused ports. This turns your PC into a vacuum cleaner.







Optimized Positive Pressure (Recommended)





The Setup: Total Intake CFM slightly > Total Exhaust CFM.



The Physics: This creates a clear airflow path where fresh cool air is forced in, while dedicated exhaust fans actively remove the rising heat. It prevents the "heat soak" that can happen if you only use intake fans.



The Result: The best of both worlds. You maintain the dust-repelling benefits of positive pressure while ensuring your GPU and CPU heat is efficiently ejected from the chassis.







How to Set Up the Perfect "Positive Pressure" Build

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, follow this simple strategy using your components.



Step 1: Maximize Intake with Filtered Air

You want more fans blowing in than blowing out. However, you must ensure the intake air comes from a filtered source.





The "Fish Tank" Solution: On panoramic cases like the darkFlash FLOATRON F1, the front panel is glass, which looks great but blocks front airflow.



The Fix: The FLOATRON F1 features fully open ventilation layout. These allow you to mount high-performance fans (like the darkFlash DM8 LINE) on the side and bottom to pull massive amounts of cold air in.



Pro Tip: Since the FLOATRON F1 comes with dust filters, these intakes will catch the dust before it hits your GPU.





(fully open ventilation layout, with magnetic filters on top and side panel)



Step 2: Choose the Right Fan for the Job

Not all fans are created equal.





For Radiators (Top Exhaust): You want fans that can push through resistance.



For Case Intake: You want durability. Since intake fans often fight against dust filters, we recommend Hydro Bearing fans. They offer a longer lifespan (~40,000+ hours) compared to standard sleeve bearings and are whisper-quiet.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE)



Step 3: The "Chimney" Configuration

Heat naturally rises. Work with physics, not against it.





Bottom: INTAKE (Cold air for the GPU).



Side: INTAKE (Fresh air for the Motherboard/CPU).



Top/Rear: EXHAUST (Pushing the hot air out).







The "Floating" Advantage: Why the FLOATRON F1 Wins

Most panoramic "fish tank" cases suffer from a common problem: they sit too low to the ground, choking the bottom fans.

The darkFlash FLOATRON F1 solves this with its signature Suspension Design (Floating Base). By elevating the chassis, it opens up a massive airway for the bottom fans to pull in fresh, cool air without restriction.



The Perfect Positive Pressure Configuration

To achieve the "Goldilocks" zone of high airflow and low dust, simply fill the fan slots on the FLOATRON F1. The case is engineered to naturally create positive pressure:





Intake (5 Fans):





Bottom: 3x Fans (The floating base allows maximum air intake directly to the GPU).



Side: 2x Fans (Pulling fresh air for the Motherboard and CPU).



Exhaust (4 Fans):





Top: 3x Fans (Radiator exhaust).



Rear: 1x Fan.

The Math: 5 Intake Fans > 4 Exhaust Fans. This setup guarantees that cool air is always forcing its way out of the cracks, keeping dust away from your precious components.







A Final Tip on Maintenance

Dust acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside heatsinks. Even with positive pressure, you should check your filters every 3-6 months. The FLOATRON F1’s filters catch the dust before it hits your hardware, making cleaning as simple as peeling off the filter and wiping it down.

Unlock the secret to a cleaner, cooler gaming rig by mastering the invisible science of positive vs. negative air pressure.

Positive vs. Negative Air Pressure: The Ultimate Guide for Dust Control

When buying case fans, most people look at RGB lighting, CFM (airflow), or noise levels (dBA). However, there is one hidden spec that dictates how long your fan will live and how noisy it will become over time: 

Hydro (Hydraulic), Sleeve, and Double Ball bearings

 to help you decide which one is worth your money for your next gaming build.

Hydro / Rifle Bearing: The Gamer's "Sweet Spot"

This is the category where most modern mid-to-high-end RGB fans (like many darkFlash models) belong. Hydro Bearings (and their cousins, Rifle Bearings) are essentially an advanced version of the Sleeve Bearing. They feature special grooves and a sealed design that recirculates the lubricant, preventing it from drying out.

 of a sleeve bearing with a significantly 

. It is the perfect balance of price and performance for home gaming PCs.

Slightly more expensive than basic sleeve fans, but cheaper than complex magnetic levitation fans.

Sleeve Bearing: The Budget-Friendly Choice

The Sleeve Bearing is the most basic and common type found in budget-friendly electronics. It uses a simple design where the central shaft rotates inside a sleeve-like cylinder, lubricated by oil or grease.

It is incredibly cheap to manufacture and is generally quiet when brand new.

The lubricant eventually dries out (evaporates). Once dry, the metal-on-metal friction causes loud noise and eventual failure.

Double Ball Bearing: The Industrial Workhorse

If you look at server rooms or mining rigs, you will find Double Ball Bearing fans. As the name suggests, this design uses two rings of tiny steel balls to support the fan shaft, significantly reducing friction.

Extremely durable. They can withstand high heat and run 24/7 for years without failing.

They are inherently noisier. You can often hear a distinct "metallic clicking" sound at low speeds, which might annoy silence-focused gamers.

Quick Comparison: Which One Should You Buy?

The "Vertical vs. Horizontal" Mounting Issue

This is a critical factor often overlooked.

 offer the best value. They provide the whisper-quiet operation you need for an immersive gaming experience while offering enough durability to outlast your other components.

When choosing fans for your next build, whether it's for a high-airflow mesh case or a stunning panoramic view case—checking the bearing type is just as important as checking the RGB style.



(darkFlash INF34 ARGB PWM Cooling Fan)



When buying case fans, most people look at RGB lighting, CFM (airflow), or noise levels (dBA). However, there is one hidden spec that dictates how long your fan will live and how noisy it will become over time: The Bearing Type.

In this guide, we will compare Hydro (Hydraulic), Sleeve, and Double Ball bearings to help you decide which one is worth your money for your next gaming build.



Hydro / Rifle Bearing: The Gamer's "Sweet Spot"

This is the category where most modern mid-to-high-end RGB fans (like many darkFlash models) belong. Hydro Bearings (and their cousins, Rifle Bearings) are essentially an advanced version of the Sleeve Bearing. They feature special grooves and a sealed design that recirculates the lubricant, preventing it from drying out.





(darkFlash INF34 ARGB PWM Cooling Fan)



The Pros

It combines the silence of a sleeve bearing with a significantly longer lifespan. It is the perfect balance of price and performance for home gaming PCs.



The Cons

Slightly more expensive than basic sleeve fans, but cheaper than complex magnetic levitation fans.



Lifespan

Good (~40,000 to 50,000+ hours).



Sleeve Bearing: The Budget-Friendly Choice

The Sleeve Bearing is the most basic and common type found in budget-friendly electronics. It uses a simple design where the central shaft rotates inside a sleeve-like cylinder, lubricated by oil or grease.







The Pros

It is incredibly cheap to manufacture and is generally quiet when brand new.



The Cons

The lubricant eventually dries out (evaporates). Once dry, the metal-on-metal friction causes loud noise and eventual failure.



Lifespan

Shortest (~30,000 to 40,000 hours).



Double Ball Bearing: The Industrial Workhorse

If you look at server rooms or mining rigs, you will find Double Ball Bearing fans. As the name suggests, this design uses two rings of tiny steel balls to support the fan shaft, significantly reducing friction.







The Pros

Extremely durable. They can withstand high heat and run 24/7 for years without failing.



The Cons

They are inherently noisier. You can often hear a distinct "metallic clicking" sound at low speeds, which might annoy silence-focused gamers.



Lifespan

Long (~50,000 to 70,000 hours).



Quick Comparison: Which One Should You Buy?





The "Vertical vs. Horizontal" Mounting Issue

This is a critical factor often overlooked.





Ball and Hydro Bearings are not affected by gravity. You can mount them vertically (front panel) or horizontally (top/bottom panel) without affecting their lifespan.



Sleeve Bearings hate being mounted horizontally (e.g., at the top of your case blowing air up). Gravity causes the oil to pool on one side, leading to uneven wear and rapid failure.





(darkFlash DM8 LINE ARGB PWM Cooling Fan, on FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case)





Pro Tip: If you are installing fans on the top radiator of your case, avoid cheap Sleeve bearings. Opt for Hydro bearings to ensure they last.



Conclusion

For most PC gamers and builders, Hydro (or Rifle) Bearing fans offer the best value. They provide the whisper-quiet operation you need for an immersive gaming experience while offering enough durability to outlast your other components.

When choosing fans for your next build, whether it's for a high-airflow mesh case or a stunning panoramic view case—checking the bearing type is just as important as checking the RGB style.

Before you buy your next fan, discover the critical difference between Hydro, Sleeve, and Ball bearings.

PC Fan Bearings Explained: Hydro, Sleeve, or Ball – Which Should You Choose?

Your PC is running louder than usual, and your frame rates are dropping. You’ve cleaned the dust filters, checked your fans, but the temperatures are still creeping up. The culprit might be the most overlooked component in your build: 

Many users install their CPU cooler once and forget about it for years. However, thermal compound is not permanent. It degrades, dries out, and loses its effectiveness over time.

The Golden Rule: How Long Does Thermal Paste Actually Last?

There is no single expiration date for thermal paste, but there is a general consensus among hardware experts and manufacturers.

Cheaper silicon-based compounds tend to dry out ("cure") faster, leading to cracks and air gaps. Premium compounds often use higher-quality suspensions that stay liquid longer.

However, if you are a heavy user who pushes your PC to its limits (video editing, 4K gaming, AI rendering) daily, the heat cycles will degrade the paste faster than a PC used only for web browsing.

5 Signs Your PC Needs New Thermal Paste Immediately

Your PC will tell you when it’s suffering. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to grab a tube of paste:

If your CPU sits at 50°C+ while doing nothing (and it used to be 35°C), the heat transfer is failing.

Are your fans ramping up to 100% speed just by opening a web browser? This suggests the cooler is struggling to pull heat away from the chip.

If your game suddenly lags or stutters after 30 minutes of play, your CPU/GPU might be slowing itself down to prevent damage.

Sudden shutdowns during intensive tasks are a major red flag.

If you remove your cooler for any reason, 

 replace the paste. Never reuse old paste.

CPU vs. GPU: Why Repasting a Graphics Card is Different

 is a standard maintenance task. It's low risk and easy to do.

In many regions, unscrewing your graphics card backplate may void the manufacturer's warranty.

GPUs often require dealing with delicate thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs in addition to the paste for the core.

Unlike CPUs, which have an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), GPU dies are exposed. One mistake in mounting pressure can crack the chip.

Repaste your CPU as regular maintenance. Only repaste your GPU if temperatures are critically high and the warranty has expired.

Why Does Thermal Paste Degrade? (The Pump-Out Effect)

Why doesn't it last forever? Two main reasons:

The solvents in the paste evaporate over time, turning the smooth liquid into a chalky, cracked solid that cannot transfer heat efficiently.

As your CPU/GPU heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Over thousands of these heating/cooling cycles, the thermal paste is physically "pumped out" from the center of the chip towards the edges, leaving the hottest part of the processor with little coverage.

(Dried out thermal paste on CPU. Resource: 

Quick Guide: How to Remove and Apply Thermal Paste Correctly

Ready to refresh your PC? Follow these simple steps for the best results:

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) to completely wipe away the old, crusty paste from both the CPU and the cooler cold plate.

 in the center of the CPU is the most foolproof method for most standard processors.

Tighten your cooler screws in a cross pattern (X pattern) to ensure the paste spreads evenly.

Thermal paste is cheap, but it plays a critical role in the longevity of your expensive hardware. By replacing it every 

, you ensure your PC runs quieter, cooler, and faster. Don't let a $5 dried-up paste ruin your $500 CPU!





Your PC is running louder than usual, and your frame rates are dropping. You’ve cleaned the dust filters, checked your fans, but the temperatures are still creeping up. The culprit might be the most overlooked component in your build: Thermal Paste. 



Many users install their CPU cooler once and forget about it for years. However, thermal compound is not permanent. It degrades, dries out, and loses its effectiveness over time.



The Golden Rule: How Long Does Thermal Paste Actually Last?

There is no single expiration date for thermal paste, but there is a general consensus among hardware experts and manufacturers.





Standard Thermal Paste: Every 2 to 3 years.



High-Performance / Premium Paste: Every 3 to 5 years.



Factory-Applied Paste (Pre-built PCs/Laptops): Often lower quality, recommended to replace after 2 years.

Why the difference? 

Cheaper silicon-based compounds tend to dry out ("cure") faster, leading to cracks and air gaps. Premium compounds often use higher-quality suspensions that stay liquid longer.

However, if you are a heavy user who pushes your PC to its limits (video editing, 4K gaming, AI rendering) daily, the heat cycles will degrade the paste faster than a PC used only for web browsing.







5 Signs Your PC Needs New Thermal Paste Immediately

Your PC will tell you when it’s suffering. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to grab a tube of paste:



Rising Idle Temperatures

If your CPU sits at 50°C+ while doing nothing (and it used to be 35°C), the heat transfer is failing.



Sudden Fan Noise

Are your fans ramping up to 100% speed just by opening a web browser? This suggests the cooler is struggling to pull heat away from the chip.



Thermal Throttling

If your game suddenly lags or stutters after 30 minutes of play, your CPU/GPU might be slowing itself down to prevent damage.



System Crashes

Sudden shutdowns during intensive tasks are a major red flag.



Visual Inspection

If you remove your cooler for any reason, always replace the paste. Never reuse old paste.







CPU vs. GPU: Why Repasting a Graphics Card is Different

Replacing thermal paste on a CPU is a standard maintenance task. It's low risk and easy to do.

However, repasting a GPU is a different beast:



Warranty Risks

In many regions, unscrewing your graphics card backplate may void the manufacturer's warranty.



Complexity

GPUs often require dealing with delicate thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs in addition to the paste for the core.



Direct Die Contact

Unlike CPUs, which have an Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS), GPU dies are exposed. One mistake in mounting pressure can crack the chip.



Our Advice

Repaste your CPU as regular maintenance. Only repaste your GPU if temperatures are critically high and the warranty has expired.







Why Does Thermal Paste Degrade? (The Pump-Out Effect)

Why doesn't it last forever? Two main reasons:



Drying Out

The solvents in the paste evaporate over time, turning the smooth liquid into a chalky, cracked solid that cannot transfer heat efficiently.



The Pump-Out Effect

As your CPU/GPU heats up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Over thousands of these heating/cooling cycles, the thermal paste is physically "pumped out" from the center of the chip towards the edges, leaving the hottest part of the processor with little coverage.





(Dried out thermal paste on CPU. Resource: CPU Ninja)



Quick Guide: How to Remove and Apply Thermal Paste Correctly

Ready to refresh your PC? Follow these simple steps for the best results:



Clean the Old Paste

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) to completely wipe away the old, crusty paste from both the CPU and the cooler cold plate.







Apply the Right Amount

You don't need much. A pea-sized dot in the center of the CPU is the most foolproof method for most standard processors.







Mount Pressure

Tighten your cooler screws in a cross pattern (X pattern) to ensure the paste spreads evenly.





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler)



Pro Tip: 

Even the best CPU Cooler or AIO Liquid Cooler cannot perform well if the thermal paste is dry.



Conclusion

Thermal paste is cheap, but it plays a critical role in the longevity of your expensive hardware. By replacing it every 2 to 3 years, you ensure your PC runs quieter, cooler, and faster. Don't let a $5 dried-up paste ruin your $500 CPU!





(darkFlash DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler)

If your PC is running hotter or louder than usual, it might be time to replace your thermal paste.

How Often Should You Replace Thermal Paste? The Ultimate Guide for CPUs and GPUs

DRX70 Series case, magnetic front panel designed easy swap between glass and mesh

The sheet metal parts that are formed are strong and the weight is reasonable.

BEST

Vmodtech (Thailand)

This casing is perfect for building a powerful gaming PC or workstation.

EDITOR'S CHOICE

Overclocking (Indonesia)

DY470 ATX PC Case offers the perfect balance of luxurious design, functionality and optimal cooling capabilities.

hardwareholic (Indonesia)

The darkFlash ARCEE DY470 is a good case with good design, durability, and pleasing aesthetics.

Rkiologist(Philippine)

These panoramic cases are the new standard, giving more ways for users to showcase their builds.

Hexmojo(Philippine)

DY470 is not just a regular PC case, but also a perfect combination of sophisticated design, powerful performance and flexible customization.

Mmosite(Vietnam)

#000000

DY470 ATX PC Case

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DN360D Liquid CPU Cooler

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DV360S Liquid CPU Cooler

DB330M M-ATX PC Case

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Computer Hardware & Components

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October 2025  Phase 1

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FLOATRON F1 M-ATX PC Case

DB330M Mesh M-ATX PC Case

WD200 M-ATX PC Case

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As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.

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