How-to Guides                                                   

When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the 

. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.

The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector

The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation





When building a PC, one of the final steps is connecting the front I/O cables from your case to the motherboard’s front panel header. These small pins are crucial for basic system functions like powering on your PC, resetting it, and showing status lights.

In this article, we’ll explain what each pin does and how to connect them correctly.







PWR LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Power LED indicates when the PC is powered on. It’s usually located on the front of your case.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matters.



The cable will be labeled PLED+ and PLED- or similar.



Align PLED+ with the motherboard’s PWR_LED+ pin, and PLED- with PWR_LED-.

Tip: If the LED doesn’t light up after booting, try reversing the connector



PWR_SW (Power Switch)

Function:
The Power Switch is the button you press to turn the PC on or off.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Simply connect the two-pin PWR SW cable to the PWR_SW pins.



RESET (Reset Switch)

Function:
The Reset Switch restarts the computer instantly without turning it off completely.

Connection:





Polarity does not matter for switches.



Connect the RESET SW cable to the RESET pins.



HDD LED (+ / -)

Function:
The Hard Drive LED (HDD LED) blinks when the system is reading from or writing to a storage drive.

Connection:





Positive (+) and Negative (-) matter.



The connector is labeled HDD LED+ and HDD LED-.



Align the positive wire (often colored) with HDD_LED+, and the negative (often black or white) with HDD_LED-.



SPEAKER

Function:
The system speaker emits beeps during startup (POST) to indicate system status or errors.

Connection:





This connector is usually a 4-pin block from the case speaker.



Match it with the SPEAKER pins on the header.



How to Identify the Positive Pin and Orientation











Most motherboards print + and - signs next to the LED pins.



Positive wires are usually labeled with a small arrow one the rear side if the connector.



The motherboard manual will have a detailed pinout diagram — always check it if unsure.



Final Tips





Handle with care — These pins are delicate; use minimal force when connecting.



Double-check before powering on — Incorrect polarity for LEDs won’t damage anything but will prevent lights from working.



Consult your motherboard manual for the exact pin layout.

Explaining each of these front panel header pins, what they do, and how to connect them correctly

Understanding Motherboard Front Panel Header Pins and How to Connect Them

Building a gaming PC means paying attention to every component – including the power supply. In recent years, Intel released new ATX power supply standards (ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1) to accommodate the increasing power demands of modern hardware. This article breaks down the differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 in a beginner-friendly way, focusing on practical implications for PC builders and gamers. We’ll cover what changed in the 

limits differ, and what it means for choosing a PSU.

ATX 3.0 is a major update to the long-standing ATX power supply design guide, released by Intel in 2022. It was developed in response to new generations of GPUs and CPUs that can draw significantly more power, with rapid spikes in consumption. ATX 3.0 introduced new guidelines to ensure PSUs can deliver these power spikes reliably, and it also brought in a new high-power connector (the 12VHPWR) for next-gen graphics cards. For PC builders, ATX 3.0 PSUs marked a big step forward from earlier ATX 2.x units, especially if you plan to use high-end GPUs like NVIDIA’s RTX 5000 series.

ATX 3.1, released in 2023, is a refinement of the 3.0 standard. It builds on the same features but includes some tweaks based on industry feedback and new PCI-SIG updates. While not a revolutionary jump, ATX 3.1 updated certain technical specifications – notably the 

 (Previously Known as 12VHPWR) connector design and the transient power excursion requirements – to improve safety and performance. For the average gamer or builder, an ATX 3.1 PSU is largely similar to ATX 3.0, but with a bit more polish on these key aspects.

The 12VHPWR Connector: Updates from ATX 3.0 to 3.1

One of the headline features of ATX 3.0 was the introduction of the 12VHPWR connector (sometimes called the “PCIe 5.0 16-pin” power connector). This 12+4 pin connector can supply up to 600 Watts to a graphics card over a single cable – a big improvement over the older 8-pin (150 W) connectors. The extra 4 pins are sense wires that communicate with the GPU, allowing it to know the power capacity available (e.g. 150W, 300W, 450W, or 600W depending on cable/PSU). In practice, this meant ATX 3.0 PSUs could ship with a single native cable for high-end GPUs (no more multiple daisy-chained 8-pins or adapter dongles), simplifying cable management for builders.

ATX 3.1 keeps the that same connector, but incorporates an updated design as defined by PCI-SIG. Often referred to as the 

connector, the revised connector has subtle mechanical improvements to enhance safety. For example, the sense-pin configuration and pin length were adjusted to ensure the GPU can detect a proper full insertion of the plug (reducing the chance of the connector not being fully seated – a known issue that led to some melting connectors in early RTX 4090 usage). In short, ATX 3.1’s power connector is the same shape and pin-count, but built to a refined standard: if you buy an ATX 3.1 PSU, its 12VHPWR cable will adhere to the latest PCIe spec for better contact and durability.

↑Graphics card damaged due to overheating connector (Image from 

From a builder’s perspective, both ATX 3.0 and 3.1 PSUs will support the latest GPUs with the 12VHPWR or 12V2x6. There’s no difference in how you plug in your card – they are cross-compatible. The advantage of ATX 3.1’s version is simply added reliability. If you already have an ATX 3.0 PSU with a 12VHPWR and use it correctly (fully seated cable, not bending it too sharply, etc.), you’re generally fine. But ATX 3.1 gives extra peace of mind that the connector meets the newest safety refinements from PCI-SIG.

Transient Power Excursions: Handling Spikes in Power

Aside from the physical connector, the most important updates are in how these standards handle transient power excursions – in simpler terms, sudden power spikes. Modern GPUs and CPUs can momentarily draw far more than their average power (for example, a 300W TDP GPU might spike to 450–600W for a few milliseconds when under a sudden heavy load). If a PSU can’t handle these surges, your system could become unstable or shut down unexpectedly.

ATX 3.0 set a new requirement that power supplies be able to accommodate extreme spikes without issue. Intel’s ATX 3.0 design guide specifies that a compliant PSU must handle power excursions up to 200% of its rated power for very short durations. It also lays out specific timing brackets – for instance (simplified for clarity): up to ~120% load for tens of milliseconds, ~160–180% for a few milliseconds, and ~200% for microseconds. This was a big change from earlier ATX 2.x units, which weren’t explicitly designed for such high surges. In practical terms, an ATX 3.0 750 W PSU could briefly supply up to ~1500 W in a spike, and a 1200 W PSU could handle almost 2400 W in a microsecond-scale transient. This ensures GPUs like the RTX 30/40/50 series, which are known for transient spikes, won’t overwhelm the PSU and cause shutdowns as long as the PSU is ATX 3.0 compliant.

ATX 3.1 refines these power excursion limits. According to Intel’s updated 3.1 specification, the allowable transient overshoot levels were adjusted slightly. The changes are technical, but essentially Intel fine-tuned how much over current and for how long a PSU must supply power. For example, ATX 3.1 might require sustaining 200% load for a slightly shorter duration than 3.0 did, or define additional tiers for intermediate spike durations. These tweaks align with data collected from real-world GPU behavior and testing feedback. The practical implication is that ATX 3.1 PSUs are even less likely to trip OCP/OPP (over-current/over-power protection) during sudden bursts, compared to ATX 3.0 units. They have been tested to handle transients with an extra margin of stability.

For PC builders, if you’re running power-hungry GPUs or doing extreme overclocking, these transient handling improvements mean 

fewer chances of a random reboot when your GPU spikes to full load

. ATX 3.0 already made great strides here, and ATX 3.1 polishes it further. That said, in normal gaming usage, you might not notice a difference – both standards are designed to handle GPU/CPU spikes that previous generation PSUs might not tolerate. It’s mainly an assurance of stability under extreme conditions.

Other Notable Differences and Similarities

Beyond the connector and transient power requirements, ATX 3.0 and 3.1 share most features. Both maintain the standard ATX PSU dimensions and mounting, the typical 24-pin motherboard connector, CPU EPS 8-pin connectors, SATA, etc. They also both coexist with ATX12VO (a separate, optional standard focusing on single-rail 12V-only PSUs for better efficiency). If you’re building a typical gaming PC, you’ll likely use a multi-rail ATX 3.x PSU (which provides 12V, 5V, 3.3V rails in the traditional way).

Here’s a summary comparison of the two standards:

Table: Comparing key aspects of ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 power supply standards.

As shown above, the differences are not dramatic – ATX 3.1 mainly fine-tunes what ATX 3.0 introduced. Both standards require high efficiency (with ATX 80 Plus certifications typically applied separately) and support new “low-power sleep” states and modern standby features on motherboards (helpful for reducing idle power draw). ATX 3.1 may incorporate slightly updated requirements for those as well, though those changes are minor for end-users.

Practical Implications for PC Builders & Gamers

So, what does all this mean when you’re shopping for or building a gaming PC?

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 ultimately comes down to evolution, not revolution. ATX 3.0 brought huge improvements for powering today’s power-hungry GPUs and CPUs, and 

 those improvements. The main practical takeaways are the support for the 12V2x6(12VHPWR) high-power GPU connector and strong handling of transient surges – both critical for high-end gaming rigs. ATX 3.1 

 of the connector and adds even more resilience to sudden power spikes, benefiting extreme use cases and further safeguarding against power-related crashes.

For most PC builders and gamers, both standards will serve you well. If you’re on the cutting edge, ATX 3.1 offers peace of mind that you have the latest spec. Otherwise, an ATX 3.0 PSU from a reputable brand already covers the vast majority of needs for current and upcoming hardware. In either case, these standards represent a positive development: they are ensuring that PSUs keep up with the fast pace of GPU and CPU advancements, delivering stable and safe power for your gaming adventures.





Building a gaming PC means paying attention to every component – including the power supply. In recent years, Intel released new ATX power supply standards (ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1) to accommodate the increasing power demands of modern hardware. This article breaks down the differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 in a beginner-friendly way, focusing on practical implications for PC builders and gamers. We’ll cover what changed in the 12V-2x6 connector, how transient power excursion limits differ, and what it means for choosing a PSU.



Introduction to ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1

ATX 3.0 is a major update to the long-standing ATX power supply design guide, released by Intel in 2022. It was developed in response to new generations of GPUs and CPUs that can draw significantly more power, with rapid spikes in consumption. ATX 3.0 introduced new guidelines to ensure PSUs can deliver these power spikes reliably, and it also brought in a new high-power connector (the 12VHPWR) for next-gen graphics cards. For PC builders, ATX 3.0 PSUs marked a big step forward from earlier ATX 2.x units, especially if you plan to use high-end GPUs like NVIDIA’s RTX 5000 series.



ATX 3.1, released in 2023, is a refinement of the 3.0 standard. It builds on the same features but includes some tweaks based on industry feedback and new PCI-SIG updates. While not a revolutionary jump, ATX 3.1 updated certain technical specifications – notably the 12V-2x6 (Previously Known as 12VHPWR) connector design and the transient power excursion requirements – to improve safety and performance. For the average gamer or builder, an ATX 3.1 PSU is largely similar to ATX 3.0, but with a bit more polish on these key aspects.



The 12VHPWR Connector: Updates from ATX 3.0 to 3.1

One of the headline features of ATX 3.0 was the introduction of the 12VHPWR connector (sometimes called the “PCIe 5.0 16-pin” power connector). This 12+4 pin connector can supply up to 600 Watts to a graphics card over a single cable – a big improvement over the older 8-pin (150 W) connectors. The extra 4 pins are sense wires that communicate with the GPU, allowing it to know the power capacity available (e.g. 150W, 300W, 450W, or 600W depending on cable/PSU). In practice, this meant ATX 3.0 PSUs could ship with a single native cable for high-end GPUs (no more multiple daisy-chained 8-pins or adapter dongles), simplifying cable management for builders.



ATX 3.1 keeps the that same connector, but incorporates an updated design as defined by PCI-SIG. Often referred to as the 12V-2x6 connector, the revised connector has subtle mechanical improvements to enhance safety. For example, the sense-pin configuration and pin length were adjusted to ensure the GPU can detect a proper full insertion of the plug (reducing the chance of the connector not being fully seated – a known issue that led to some melting connectors in early RTX 4090 usage). In short, ATX 3.1’s power connector is the same shape and pin-count, but built to a refined standard: if you buy an ATX 3.1 PSU, its 12VHPWR cable will adhere to the latest PCIe spec for better contact and durability.





↑Graphics card damaged due to overheating connector (Image from reddit, r/nvidia)



From a builder’s perspective, both ATX 3.0 and 3.1 PSUs will support the latest GPUs with the 12VHPWR or 12V2x6. There’s no difference in how you plug in your card – they are cross-compatible. The advantage of ATX 3.1’s version is simply added reliability. If you already have an ATX 3.0 PSU with a 12VHPWR and use it correctly (fully seated cable, not bending it too sharply, etc.), you’re generally fine. But ATX 3.1 gives extra peace of mind that the connector meets the newest safety refinements from PCI-SIG.



Transient Power Excursions: Handling Spikes in Power

Aside from the physical connector, the most important updates are in how these standards handle transient power excursions – in simpler terms, sudden power spikes. Modern GPUs and CPUs can momentarily draw far more than their average power (for example, a 300W TDP GPU might spike to 450–600W for a few milliseconds when under a sudden heavy load). If a PSU can’t handle these surges, your system could become unstable or shut down unexpectedly.



ATX 3.0 set a new requirement that power supplies be able to accommodate extreme spikes without issue. Intel’s ATX 3.0 design guide specifies that a compliant PSU must handle power excursions up to 200% of its rated power for very short durations. It also lays out specific timing brackets – for instance (simplified for clarity): up to ~120% load for tens of milliseconds, ~160–180% for a few milliseconds, and ~200% for microseconds. This was a big change from earlier ATX 2.x units, which weren’t explicitly designed for such high surges. In practical terms, an ATX 3.0 750 W PSU could briefly supply up to ~1500 W in a spike, and a 1200 W PSU could handle almost 2400 W in a microsecond-scale transient. This ensures GPUs like the RTX 30/40/50 series, which are known for transient spikes, won’t overwhelm the PSU and cause shutdowns as long as the PSU is ATX 3.0 compliant.



ATX 3.1 refines these power excursion limits. According to Intel’s updated 3.1 specification, the allowable transient overshoot levels were adjusted slightly. The changes are technical, but essentially Intel fine-tuned how much over current and for how long a PSU must supply power. For example, ATX 3.1 might require sustaining 200% load for a slightly shorter duration than 3.0 did, or define additional tiers for intermediate spike durations. These tweaks align with data collected from real-world GPU behavior and testing feedback. The practical implication is that ATX 3.1 PSUs are even less likely to trip OCP/OPP (over-current/over-power protection) during sudden bursts, compared to ATX 3.0 units. They have been tested to handle transients with an extra margin of stability.



For PC builders, if you’re running power-hungry GPUs or doing extreme overclocking, these transient handling improvements mean fewer chances of a random reboot when your GPU spikes to full load. ATX 3.0 already made great strides here, and ATX 3.1 polishes it further. That said, in normal gaming usage, you might not notice a difference – both standards are designed to handle GPU/CPU spikes that previous generation PSUs might not tolerate. It’s mainly an assurance of stability under extreme conditions.



Other Notable Differences and Similarities

Beyond the connector and transient power requirements, ATX 3.0 and 3.1 share most features. Both maintain the standard ATX PSU dimensions and mounting, the typical 24-pin motherboard connector, CPU EPS 8-pin connectors, SATA, etc. They also both coexist with ATX12VO (a separate, optional standard focusing on single-rail 12V-only PSUs for better efficiency). If you’re building a typical gaming PC, you’ll likely use a multi-rail ATX 3.x PSU (which provides 12V, 5V, 3.3V rails in the traditional way).



Here’s a summary comparison of the two standards:







Table: Comparing key aspects of ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 power supply standards.



As shown above, the differences are not dramatic – ATX 3.1 mainly fine-tunes what ATX 3.0 introduced. Both standards require high efficiency (with ATX 80 Plus certifications typically applied separately) and support new “low-power sleep” states and modern standby features on motherboards (helpful for reducing idle power draw). ATX 3.1 may incorporate slightly updated requirements for those as well, though those changes are minor for end-users.



Practical Implications for PC Builders & Gamers

So, what does all this mean when you’re shopping for or building a gaming PC?





Future-Proofing for GPUs: If you plan to use or upgrade to a high-end graphics card, you’ll want at least an ATX 3.0 PSU. It will have the right cable (12VHPWR) out of the box and can handle the card’s power swings. An ATX 3.1 PSU gives you that plus the latest connector improvements. For example, builders using an RTX 5090 or upcoming next-gen GPUs can plug straight into a native 16-pin cable and trust their PSU to handle sudden spikes in wattage.



Stability Under Peak Loads: If you’ve ever had your PC reset when launching a game or benchmark, a likely cause is the PSU failing to meet a transient spike. ATX 3.0/3.1 units are specifically designed to prevent that. This means more stable performance in scenarios like VR gameplay, intensive ray tracing, or CPU stress tests, where power demand can jump instantaneously. ATX 3.1’s refinements further reduce the odds of tripping protections during these spikes.



Connector Safety: The updated 12VHPWR design under ATX 3.1 mitigates issues that early adopters encountered (like the melting connector problem from not fully plugging in the cable). As a gamer or builder, you should still always ensure the 16-pin plug is fully seated on your GPU and avoid bending the cable too close to the connector. But ATX 3.1 cables will be a bit more foolproof by design. Manufacturers also often include better quality 12VHPWR cables in newer PSUs, sometimes with 90-degree adapters or sturdier plugs.



Do You Need to Upgrade? If you already own a good ATX 3.0 PSU, you likely don’t need to rush out for ATX 3.1. The differences are incremental. However, if you’re buying a new PSU in 2025, check the specs – you might find some units labeled as ATX 3.1. Choosing one will give you the slight edge of the latest standard. 



Compatibility: Both ATX 3.0 and 3.1 are fully backward-compatible. They will work with any standard ATX motherboard and PC components. They simply add capabilities. For instance, you can use an ATX 3.0 PSU on an older PC build – it will perform like a high-quality ATX 2.x unit, just with extra connectors (you don’t have to use the 12VHPWR cable if your GPU doesn’t need it). Similarly, an ATX 3.1 PSU will work in any scenario an ATX 3.0 PSU would.



Conclusion

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 ultimately comes down to evolution, not revolution. ATX 3.0 brought huge improvements for powering today’s power-hungry GPUs and CPUs, and ATX 3.1 fine-tuned those improvements. The main practical takeaways are the support for the 12V2x6(12VHPWR) high-power GPU connector and strong handling of transient surges – both critical for high-end gaming rigs. ATX 3.1 improves the reliability of the connector and adds even more resilience to sudden power spikes, benefiting extreme use cases and further safeguarding against power-related crashes.



For most PC builders and gamers, both standards will serve you well. If you’re on the cutting edge, ATX 3.1 offers peace of mind that you have the latest spec. Otherwise, an ATX 3.0 PSU from a reputable brand already covers the vast majority of needs for current and upcoming hardware. In either case, these standards represent a positive development: they are ensuring that PSUs keep up with the fast pace of GPU and CPU advancements, delivering stable and safe power for your gaming adventures.

A beginner-friendly article that clearly explains the differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1 standards, with a focus on real-world implications for PC users and builders.

ATX 3.0 vs ATX 3.1 The Most Comprehensive Explanation That You Will Ever Need

Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.

In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.

In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.

To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).

Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.

The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:

Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important

Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.

Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required

These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.

In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).

Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.

These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.

For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.

And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our 

 helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!





Now you've met the brain and the muscle of the motherboard, now it's time to wire things up.



In Part 1, we covered the beefy components like the CPU socket, RAM slots, and PCIE lanes. But even the most powerful parts won't work without proper power, storage and connections.



In this post, we will  be diving into the unsung heroes of the motherboard-theb power connectors, SATA ports fan headers, and those tiny front panel pins that's trippping even for experienced buiders. Understanding these pieces is essential.



Let's plug in andf power up!



Power Connectors





To power up your system, plug in: 24-pin ATX (Main System Power) and 8-pin EPS (CPU power).



Tips: Some high-end boards have dual 8-pin CPU connectors—for stable overclocking and power delivery.



Rear I/O Panel – External Connectivity





The metal plate (some have back plates integrated on the board itself) on the back of your motherboard includes:





USB ports (2.0, 3.0, 3.2, Type-C)



Audio jacks



Ethernet port



Display outputs (HDMI, DisplayPort) – only work if your CPU has integrated graphics



Higher-end boards may include Wi-Fi antennas and BIOS flashback buttons.



Front Panel Connectors – Small but Important





Tiny pins usually labeled F_PANEL (PANEL1 for this reference photo). These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the power button from the case you bought.

You’ll connect:





Power switch



Reset switch



HDD LED



Power LED

Beware: These are tricky—consult the manual.



Cooling Connectors – Absolutely Required





These are the pinouts for your CPU cooler and case fans.





The CPU_FAN is for the CPU cooler fan.



The CHA_FAN (Chassis fan) is where your case fans connects.

Tips: If you got a water cooler, you can connect the water pump to either of these pinout as well, just make sure to set the speed to 100% in the BIOS settings in order to get the optimal performance.



In some motherboards, there will be a specific pinout for the water pump as well (labeled as AIO_PUMP or PUMP_HEADER).



Audio and USB – The Coup De Grace





Last but not least, let's don't forget the critical part of a PC, the USB and Audio ports.



These are the pinout that you will be connecting to the front I/O (The cables that connects to the USB and Audio port from the case you bought). The one with the 19 pin (Left side on the photo) is for USB 3.0 port of the front I/O, and next to it is the USB Type-C port. USB 2.0 is the 9 pin connector with the bottom right pin missing.



For the audio (Labeled as AC97 or HD_Audio) is another 9 pin but with a missing pin on the second top right counting from the right side. It may sounds mouthful but worry not, all of the pinout are absolutely fool-proof.



Final Thoughts

Learning how to “read” a motherboard makes every step of PC building easier—from choosing parts to troubleshooting. Bookmark this guide and come back to it when you’re ready to build, upgrade, or explore.



And don’t forget—choosing a good case like one from our darkFlash case collection helps showcase your build and makes cable management much smoother!

Part 2 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 2): I/O ports, Power Connectors, and Fan Headers

 of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.

In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the 

 of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.

Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.

This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.

 You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.

Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.

These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.

Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).

PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More

These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 

 Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.

Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.

 Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.





The motherboard is the central nervous system of your PC—it connects and powers every component. But to new PC builders, a motherboard can look like a maze of weird slots, pins, and acronyms.


In this two-part guide, we’ll break down the essential parts of a motherboard, explain what each section does, and help you confidently plug in your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSDs, fans, and more.



Form Factor – The First Thing to Know

Before diving into ports and pins, you should know the size and layout of your motherboard.





Tips: Make sure your PC case supports the motherboard size you choose.



CPU Socket – The Master Mind





This is where your processor (CPU) goes. It’s a square-shaped socket with a latch.





Intel: LGA 1851, LGA 1700, etc. (pins are on the motherboard)



AMD: AM4, AM5 (pins are on the CPU)

Beware: You must match the CPU socket type with your processor model.
Tips: Most motherboards also have a VRM heatsink near the CPU socket for power regulation.



RAM Slots – Memory Matters





These are the long vertical slots beside the CPU socket.





Labeled as DIMM1, DIMM2, etc.



Usually 2 or 4 slots depending on board size



Only supports DDR4 or DDR5 (not both!)

Tips: Install RAM in the correct slots for dual-channel (usually slots 2 and 4 counting from the CPU side – check the manual).



PCIe Slots – For Graphics Cards and More





These are the horizontal slots under the CPU area. With the longer one supporting up to PCIex16 usually for graphics cards and the shorter one for Capture cards, Wi-Fi, sound cards. Newer motherboards may support PCIe Gen 5.0, but GPUs still mostly use Gen 4.0. 



Tips: Use the top PCIe x16 slot for your GPU—it’s wired with the most bandwidth.



M.2 and SATA – Storage Interfaces





Modern motherboards come with M.2 slots and SATA ports.



M.2 Slots (for NVMe or SATA SSDs):





Typically located between PCIe slots



Look for labels like M.2_1, M.2_2



May need to remove a heatsink

SATA Ports (for 2.5" SSDs, HDDs):





Usually 4–6 L-shaped connectors on the edge

Tips: Some M.2 slots disable SATA ports when in use—check the manual.



What's Next?

In the next post, we will walk you through the other side of the motherboard—SATA ports, power connectors, front I/O, fan headers and more! Stay tuned so you can master every inch of your motherboards before you build.

Part 1 of a two-part series that will lead to master your motherboard layout and build with confidence

How to Read a Motherboard (Part 1): CPU, RAM, and Expansion Slots Explained

Build Guides                                                    

If you've been researching computers recently—whether you're building a PC or upgrading components—you've probably come across mysterious motherboard model names like “Z890,” “B760,” or “X870.” But what do these letters and numbers actually mean? And how can you make sure you're choosing the right one?

Don't worry—this article is written specifically for 

. It'll help you fully understand motherboard naming conventions, and also explain the differences between Intel and AMD boards.

What is Z890? How do you read a motherboard model number?

Let’s break down the naming logic using “Z890” as an example. It can be divided into two parts:

Intel vs AMD Motherboards: What’s the Difference?

While both Intel and AMD motherboards let you plug in a CPU, RAM, and graphics card to run a PC, their naming systems and specifications are different.

Different CPU generations use different sockets:

, meaning it offers enhanced features and expandability—like more PCIe lanes, USB ports, and stronger power delivery.

Here’s a quick summary of common usage scenarios:

(Only a selection of mainstream models is listed)

(for full motherboard support, please refer to each brand’s official website)

Quick Tip: Make Sure the CPU Matches the Socket!

You can’t install an Intel 13th Gen CPU (LGA1700) on a motherboard that only supports LGA1200. Similarly, you can’t use a Ryzen 7000 CPU on an AM4 motherboard.

Conclusion: Motherboard Model Numbers Aren’t That Hard!

Then motherboard model names won’t feel like a foreign language anymore. You’ll be able to confidently choose the right board without getting confused by spec sheets!





If you've been researching computers recently—whether you're building a PC or upgrading components—you've probably come across mysterious motherboard model names like “Z890,” “B760,” or “X870.” But what do these letters and numbers actually mean? And how can you make sure you're choosing the right one?



Don't worry—this article is written specifically for complete beginners. It'll help you fully understand motherboard naming conventions, and also explain the differences between Intel and AMD boards.



What is Z890? How do you read a motherboard model number?

Let’s break down the naming logic using “Z890” as an example. It can be divided into two parts:





Z: Represents the tier or level of the motherboard (higher-tier models have more features and cost more)



890: Indicates the CPU generation it supports (this number changes with each new CPU generation)



Intel vs AMD Motherboards: What’s the Difference?

While both Intel and AMD motherboards let you plug in a CPU, RAM, and graphics card to run a PC, their naming systems and specifications are different.





(ROG Z890, VIDEOCARDZ)



Intel Motherboards Overview

Intel models usually start with Z, B, or H to indicate tier:





Z Series: High-end; supports CPU and RAM overclocking; most feature-rich



B Series: Mid-range, good value and performance; ideal for most users



H Series: Entry-level, basic features, lowest cost

Different CPU generations use different sockets:





LGA1851: For the latest 15th Gen Core Ultra (e.g., Z890, B860)



LGA1700: For 12th to 14th Gen



LGA1200: For 10th and 11th Gen





(AORUS X870, VIDEOCARDZ)



AMD Motherboards Overview

AMD uses X, B, and A to represent tiers:





X Series: High-end, for enthusiasts and creators; supports the most PCIe and USB lanes



B Series: Mid-range, best value for performance



A Series: Entry-level, no flashy features, good for budget users

AMD supports two main socket types:





AM5: For the new Ryzen 7000 to 9000 series (e.g., X870E, B850)



AM4: Compatible with Ryzen 1000 to 5000 series

＊The "E" in AMD motherboard models stands for Extreme, meaning it offers enhanced features and expandability—like more PCIe lanes, USB ports, and stronger power delivery.



Which Motherboard Is Right for You?

Here’s a quick summary of common usage scenarios:





Gaming, streaming, video editing, or overclocking?
Choose Intel Z series or AMD X series



Gaming on a budget?
Go with Intel B series or AMD B series



Just browsing the web, writing reports, or watching videos?
Go with Intel H series or AMD A series



(Only a selection of mainstream models is listed)

(for full motherboard support, please refer to each brand’s official website)



Quick Tip: Make Sure the CPU Matches the Socket!


You can’t install an Intel 13th Gen CPU (LGA1700) on a motherboard that only supports LGA1200. Similarly, you can’t use a Ryzen 7000 CPU on an AM4 motherboard.

Before buying, always check:





The motherboard’s CPU socket (e.g., LGA1700, AM5)



The CPU generations it supports



Whether the memory type is compatible (most new boards are now shifting to DDR5)







Conclusion: Motherboard Model Numbers Aren’t That Hard!


Once you understand that:





Letters indicate tier/level



Numbers refer to CPU generation



And the CPU must match the socket

Then motherboard model names won’t feel like a foreign language anymore. You’ll be able to confidently choose the right board without getting confused by spec sheets!

What do motherboard model names mean? What should you pay attention to when choosing one?
Here’s everything you need to know!

Z890? X870? What Do Motherboard Model Names Mean?

Recently, Intel launched the next generation of processors, the Intel Core Ultra 200S series. Unlike previous generations, Intel has chosen to drop the traditional numerical naming system and replace it with the "Ultra" label, signaling a new era for Intel. In this guide, we'll delve into everything you need to know about the Intel Core Ultra 200S processors.

Which 14th Gen Processors Correspond to the Core Ultra 200S?

The Intel Core Ultra 200S series corresponds to the following 14th Gen models:

What Upgrades Does the Intel Core Ultra Offer?

1. Addition of Neural Processing Unit (NPU)

To enhance AI processing capabilities, Intel has integrated a Neural Processing Unit (NPU) into the CPU for the first time. This addition allows PCs to handle a certain degree of AI computations locally, reducing reliance on cloud processing. An NPU is specialized hardware designed to accelerate neural network operations and AI tasks. Unlike traditional CPUs and GPUs, the NPU focuses on complex mathematical computations, particularly those related to artificial neural networks.

The Core Ultra processors feature a new hybrid architecture with a combination of P-Cores (Performance Cores) and E-Cores (Efficiency Cores). This allows for smart resource allocation during multitasking, boosting multi-threading performance and ensuring fast processing of high-performance workloads.

Intel has continued to improve the built-in graphics capabilities of its CPUs, now equipped with an upgraded Intel Arc GPU. This significantly boosts integrated graphics performance, making it ideal for gamers or creators who need efficient graphics processing.

Things to Keep in Mind When Buying the Intel Core Ultra 200S

Due to the new architecture and socket design, the Intel Core Ultra 200S series is not compatible with older Z790 or B760 motherboards. Currently, only Z890 motherboards support the Core Ultra 200S series processors.

The Z890 motherboards that support the Core Ultra 200S processors no longer support DDR4 RAM. Be sure to check that you’re purchasing DDR5 RAM to match your motherboard and CPU.

Cooling Recommendations for Intel Core Ultra 200S CPUs

Core Ultra 5 245K Cooling Recommendations

The Ultra 5 processor has a relatively lower number of cores, meaning it doesn’t generate excessive heat. Therefore, a standard air cooler or a 240mm water cooler will be sufficient.

Core Ultra 7 265K / Core Ultra 9 285K Cooling Recommendations

The Ultra 7 and Ultra 9 models come with high performance and higher heat output. For these, we recommend using a 360mm water cooler to manage the heat efficiently.

When choosing an Intel Core Ultra 200S CPU, consider your workload, budget, and expansion needs. This will help you select the most suitable model to take full advantage of its AI acceleration, performance, and graphics processing capabilities.





Recently, Intel launched the next generation of processors, the Intel Core Ultra 200S series. Unlike previous generations, Intel has chosen to drop the traditional numerical naming system and replace it with the "Ultra" label, signaling a new era for Intel. In this guide, we'll delve into everything you need to know about the Intel Core Ultra 200S processors.



Which 14th Gen Processors Correspond to the Core Ultra 200S?

The Intel Core Ultra 200S series corresponds to the following 14th Gen models:





Core Ultra 9 285K corresponds to Core i9-14900K



Core Ultra 7 265K corresponds to Core i7-14700K



Core Ultra 5 245K corresponds to Core i5-14600K



What Upgrades Does the Intel Core Ultra Offer?

1. Addition of Neural Processing Unit (NPU)

To enhance AI processing capabilities, Intel has integrated a Neural Processing Unit (NPU) into the CPU for the first time. This addition allows PCs to handle a certain degree of AI computations locally, reducing reliance on cloud processing. An NPU is specialized hardware designed to accelerate neural network operations and AI tasks. Unlike traditional CPUs and GPUs, the NPU focuses on complex mathematical computations, particularly those related to artificial neural networks.







2. Architectural Improvements

The Core Ultra processors feature a new hybrid architecture with a combination of P-Cores (Performance Cores) and E-Cores (Efficiency Cores). This allows for smart resource allocation during multitasking, boosting multi-threading performance and ensuring fast processing of high-performance workloads.



3. Enhanced Graphics Processing Power

Intel has continued to improve the built-in graphics capabilities of its CPUs, now equipped with an upgraded Intel Arc GPU. This significantly boosts integrated graphics performance, making it ideal for gamers or creators who need efficient graphics processing.



Things to Keep in Mind When Buying the Intel Core Ultra 200S

1. Motherboard Compatibility

Due to the new architecture and socket design, the Intel Core Ultra 200S series is not compatible with older Z790 or B760 motherboards. Currently, only Z890 motherboards support the Core Ultra 200S series processors.



2. RAM Support

The Z890 motherboards that support the Core Ultra 200S processors no longer support DDR4 RAM. Be sure to check that you’re purchasing DDR5 RAM to match your motherboard and CPU.



Cooling Recommendations for Intel Core Ultra 200S CPUs

Core Ultra 5 245K Cooling Recommendations

The Ultra 5 processor has a relatively lower number of cores, meaning it doesn’t generate excessive heat. Therefore, a standard air cooler or a 240mm water cooler will be sufficient.



Cooling Recommendations:





Z4 Pro Mist Tower CPU Cooler



DN240S Liquid CPU Cooler







Core Ultra 7 265K / Core Ultra 9 285K Cooling Recommendations

The Ultra 7 and Ultra 9 models come with high performance and higher heat output. For these, we recommend using a 360mm water cooler to manage the heat efficiently.



Cooling Recommendations:





DN360 Liquid CPU Cooler



DN360S Liquid CPU Cooler











When choosing an Intel Core Ultra 200S CPU, consider your workload, budget, and expansion needs. This will help you select the most suitable model to take full advantage of its AI acceleration, performance, and graphics processing capabilities.

The all-new Intel Core Ultra 200S CPU has arrived, and understanding it better will help gamers make informed decisions when selecting and upgrading their systems.

Intel Core Ultra 200S CPU Buying Guide

Hardware Tips                                                   

A back-insertion motherboard is designed to move the CPU, graphics card, and power connectors and ports to the back of the motherboard. This design makes the interior of the PC case look cleaner and significantly improves cable management. But what other features does it offer?

| Features of Back-Insertion Motherboards |

With all cables relocated to the back of the motherboard, the interior of the case no longer shows tangled wires, creating a much tidier overall look.

When installing power cables for the CPU, it's often challenging due to interference from top-mounted water coolers. However, with power connectors moved to the back, these installation difficulties are eliminated, significantly enhancing the building process's efficiency.

| Which Motherboard Manufacturers Have Released Back-Insertion Motherboards? |

ASUS has named their back-insertion motherboards under the BTF series. So if you see "BTF" in the model name, it indicates that it's a back-insertion motherboard.

The "Project Zero" label represents MSI's back-insertion motherboards. Currently, only a silver version is available, and these motherboards are clearly marked with the Project Zero branding, making them easily recognizable.

The B650E AORUS STEALTH ICE is currently the only back-insertion motherboard model offered by Gigabyte, and it only supports AMD processors. Be sure to pay attention to this if you're considering purchasing this motherboard.

| What Should You Consider When Buying a Back-Insertion Motherboard? |

Does Your Case Support Back-Insertion Motherboards?

If you opt for a back-insertion motherboard, you’ll need to ensure that your case supports this type of motherboard. You can check the case’s manual or look for visible cutouts in the case’s interior to determine if it's compatible with back-insertion designs.

Is There Enough Rear Cable Management Space?

Since all the cables are routed to the back of the motherboard, the rear cable management space must be deep enough to ensure that the cables can be properly organized and the rear panel can still close without any issues.

| Will Back-Insertion Motherboards Become Mainstream? |

Although motherboard manufacturers have been slow to release these designs, back-insertion motherboards offer both aesthetic advantages and improved building efficiency. Whether from a visual standpoint or a DIY enthusiast's perspective, it’s a promising development. We look forward to motherboard manufacturers continuing to offer more cost-effective back-insertion motherboards, helping to make this design more widespread.

| Recommended Cases for Back-Insertion Motherboards |

darkFlash has launched the first case that supports back-insertion motherboards – the DY470. In addition to supporting back-insertion motherboards, it features an eye-catching design with ultra-transparent glass panels on three sides and irregularly cut angles, making it look like a piece of art on your desk. To cater to DIY enthusiasts, the case comes with a streamlined, wave-pattern cable management rear panel that allows users to neatly hide their cables. It also comes with four high-performance ARGB fans, designed for optimal cooling.





A back-insertion motherboard is designed to move the CPU, graphics card, and power connectors and ports to the back of the motherboard. This design makes the interior of the PC case look cleaner and significantly improves cable management. But what other features does it offer?



| Features of Back-Insertion Motherboards |

Aesthetically Pleasing Interior

With all cables relocated to the back of the motherboard, the interior of the case no longer shows tangled wires, creating a much tidier overall look.







Simplified Cable Connections

When installing power cables for the CPU, it's often challenging due to interference from top-mounted water coolers. However, with power connectors moved to the back, these installation difficulties are eliminated, significantly enhancing the building process's efficiency.







| Which Motherboard Manufacturers Have Released Back-Insertion Motherboards? |

ASUS BTF Series

ASUS has named their back-insertion motherboards under the BTF series. So if you see "BTF" in the model name, it indicates that it's a back-insertion motherboard.



MSI Project Zero Series

The "Project Zero" label represents MSI's back-insertion motherboards. Currently, only a silver version is available, and these motherboards are clearly marked with the Project Zero branding, making them easily recognizable.



Gigabyte B650E AORUS STEALTH ICE

The B650E AORUS STEALTH ICE is currently the only back-insertion motherboard model offered by Gigabyte, and it only supports AMD processors. Be sure to pay attention to this if you're considering purchasing this motherboard.





| What Should You Consider When Buying a Back-Insertion Motherboard? |

Does Your Case Support Back-Insertion Motherboards?

If you opt for a back-insertion motherboard, you’ll need to ensure that your case supports this type of motherboard. You can check the case’s manual or look for visible cutouts in the case’s interior to determine if it's compatible with back-insertion designs.



Is There Enough Rear Cable Management Space?

Since all the cables are routed to the back of the motherboard, the rear cable management space must be deep enough to ensure that the cables can be properly organized and the rear panel can still close without any issues.





| Will Back-Insertion Motherboards Become Mainstream? |

Although motherboard manufacturers have been slow to release these designs, back-insertion motherboards offer both aesthetic advantages and improved building efficiency. Whether from a visual standpoint or a DIY enthusiast's perspective, it’s a promising development. We look forward to motherboard manufacturers continuing to offer more cost-effective back-insertion motherboards, helping to make this design more widespread.




| Recommended Cases for Back-Insertion Motherboards |

darkFlash has launched the first case that supports back-insertion motherboards – the DY470. In addition to supporting back-insertion motherboards, it features an eye-catching design with ultra-transparent glass panels on three sides and irregularly cut angles, making it look like a piece of art on your desk. To cater to DIY enthusiasts, the case comes with a streamlined, wave-pattern cable management rear panel that allows users to neatly hide their cables. It also comes with four high-performance ARGB fans, designed for optimal cooling.













Back-insertion motherboards have become a hot topic recently, and there are several reasons why they may become the mainstream choice in the future.

What is a Back-Insertion Motherboard? Will It Become the Future Mainstream?

Beginner’s Guide to Choosing a Motherboard

Before selecting a motherboard, it's crucial to first choose your CPU. This is because Intel and AMD processors are compatible with different motherboards. For DIY PC beginners, this distinction is important to keep in mind. Below is a breakdown of motherboards into entry-level, mid-range, and high-end categories to help you find the right fit.

When choosing a motherboard, consider your specific needs, budget, and usage scenarios to find the most suitable model and category for your build.



Beginner’s Guide to Choosing a Motherboard

Before selecting a motherboard, it's crucial to first choose your CPU. This is because Intel and AMD processors are compatible with different motherboards. For DIY PC beginners, this distinction is important to keep in mind. Below is a breakdown of motherboards into entry-level, mid-range, and high-end categories to help you find the right fit.

Entry-Level Motherboards

Target Audience:





Basic home PCs



Office PCs

Key Features:





Basic expansion options, typically with 2 RAM slots and a single PCIe slot.



No heat sinks on the I/O section, exposing the chips on the PCB.

Recommended Processors:





Intel: i3 series, i5 series



AMD: R3 series, R5 series

Recommended Motherboard Models:





Intel: H series, some entry-level B series, e.g., H610



AMD: A series, e.g., A520, A620







Mid-Range Motherboards

Target Audience:





Casual gamers



Content creators with moderate workloads

Key Features:





Better expansion options, typically with 4 RAM slots and multiple PCIe slots.



Improved thermal management compared to the H series, with some models featuring ARGB lighting.

Recommended Processors:





Intel: i5 series, i7 series



AMD: R5 series, R7 series

Recommended Motherboard Models:





Intel: B series, e.g., B660, B760



AMD: B series, e.g., B550, B650





High-End Motherboards

Target Audience:





Hardcore gamers



Professional content creators



High-performance PC enthusiasts

Key Features:





Maximum expansion with full heat sinks, multiple PCIe slots, and USB Type-C ports.



Supports overclocking, allowing you to unlock the full potential of your CPU.

Recommended Processors:





Intel: i7 series, i9 series, and all K-series CPUs



AMD: R7 series, R9 series

Recommended Motherboard Models:





Intel: Z series, e.g., Z790



AMD: X series, e.g., X670, X670E





When choosing a motherboard, consider your specific needs, budget, and usage scenarios to find the most suitable model and category for your build.

Motherboards can be categorized into entry-level, mid-range, and high-end options. By identifying which category best suits your needs, you can more quickly select the right motherboard for your setup.

Beginner Guide of Choosing Motherboard

As an enthusiast of games and computer DIY in this age, we, darkFlash, feel proud and grateful for keep thinking how to develop impressive and extraordinary products with high-end facilities by assembling and using the PC cases, CPU coolers, case fans, and even gaming chairs and tables in person.

Our goal is to create products that could extremely exert its effect by every user.